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Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 8:14 pm
by i-moto
Hi guys,

I'm aiming to get into twinshock trials here in SA with my old RL250.

I was wondering if there are guidelines online anywhere for what will and won't pass scrutineering?

My bike has a few "bush mechanic" fixes and I'm wondering if it would get through as it sits. My main concern is the rear sprocket - it has been bolted through the hub with nyloc nuts inside the hub holding it all together as the threads are obviously stripped. This setup works fine and the sprocket certainly isn't going anywhere in a hurry, but it doesn't look all that pretty.

Other potential issues I can think of are the non-folding gear lever, crappy looking but functional home-made front sprocket cover and rusty looking petrol tank which I've left this way for patina, but it could be restored.

Cheers,
Tom

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 9:24 pm
by PA
What suburb are you in Tom as I am sure we can organize a scrutineer to check it over for you.

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:50 am
by i-moto
I'm in Prospect and that would be awesome - I need to get my membership form in so I can attend the training day in April!

Thanks!

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 1:59 pm
by dragster1964
I wouldn't be concerned with patina but some things I'd check are working brakes, returning throttle, unbroken clutch/brake levers, tight spokes and wheel bearings, bar ends plugged, not noisy or leaking fluids, working suspension(if fitted) and the two most recent are kill switch lanyard and rear sprocket guard. I'm sure people can add to this list but that's a start.

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 6:40 pm
by Rod
Definitely the lanyard kill switch and rear sprocket guard would be the two things that might catch someone out who is re-entering the sport after many years away. Those nylon kitchen cutting boards or any thick plastic for that matter will suffice for a sprocket guard, many simply cable tie them to the brake stay or swingarm and this seems acceptable.
I really just wanted to show off my attempt at a sprocket guard for my ole Fantic, it uses a right sided Beta "shark fin" and the 5mm thick alloy bracket I made has been expertly TIG welded to the existing alloy brake stay by 'Logan', what started out as an outstanding weld went haywire when the gas was inadvertently turned off but Justins experience managed to save the day and I'm really happy with the outcome, it actually looks like it's meant to be there, like a modern bike. Photo attached.
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Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 9:47 pm
by Phil 850
Noob to trials, what is the purpose of the sprocket guard ?

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 11:08 pm
by David Lahey
Phil 850 wrote:Noob to trials, what is the purpose of the sprocket guard ?

It is intended to prevent entrapment of body parts into the pinch point where the chain runs onto the rear sprocket

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 7:35 pm
by i-moto
Thanks gentlemen for the advice and to PA for putting me in touch with Rob.

Happy to report that aside from the Lanyard kill switch, rear sprocket guard and end caps for the handlebars, she's good to go!

Cheers,
Tom

Re: Scrutineering guidelines?

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 10:11 pm
by outforfun
Just a little side note on the lanyard kill switch.

There are 2 different operating modes, if you get the wrong one your bike will run with it unplugged, but not run with it plugged in.
Make sure you get the right type.

Also if it is possible ride your bike and try different mounting positions. Some people like it on the right wrist, others on their left. It is all a personal choice really.

The main issue is when you move your body position around on the bike if the mount is in the wrong place, you may unplug the lanyard inadvertently. So riding the bike at home or somewhere you can test your positioning and decide if you like it or need to move it.