Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

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Guy53
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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby Guy53 » Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:48 am

I hope for you the wife don't find room in the closet for a different size of man shoe.

Guy



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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby pop » Fri Jun 03, 2016 11:59 am

never tried the ice method on a tank, only because someone did and blew out everything except the dent, even split the seams.



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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby David Lahey » Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:32 pm

I finally got to use Stan's hot-melt glue method for dent removal today. It worked well on this very lightweight aluminium tank, taking out a knee dent. I pulled by hand (no slide hammer), holding against the tank with my feet just like Stan did. The metal moved at near the limit of my strength and I pulled in four different places to get the results shown.
Luckily my wife has a hot-melt glue gun and was willing to let me loose with it in the workshop. I found that I needed a hot-air gun to get everything hot enough to make the glue hold well. I let it cool for about 10 minutes each time for the whole thing to get cool enough for the glue to hold well.
I stripped the paint off and scratched the surface up so the glue would hold well. Each time while I was practicing the technique, the glue pulled off the nut, never off the tank, so I think if I do it again I will make a special end piece to go on the pulling rod, that has a scratched-up surface for the glue to stick to better.
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relax, nothing is under control

David Lahey
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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby David Lahey » Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:36 pm

I forgot to mention that while the dent I pulled out today was from crashing the bike, the myriad of small dents in that tank were caused by rampaging possums who knocked some motorbike exhausts down that had been hanging up above the bike in the shed


relax, nothing is under control

tat ty
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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby tat ty » Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:39 am

In days of old David, the best quality glue was made from animal (possum) hide.... now there's a thought.

Alastair



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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby Stanm » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:25 pm

Good job with the tank David

Well glue! That's another topic of interest for those keen to mend things and save a few bucks.

And trials boot being expensive are always something worth fixing with a bit of glue but what glue???

I tried the Kwick grip to glue on my my alpine stars and it lasted only a few rides. Tried it several times and wont use it any more it. Wont work for me.

I have glued my Hebo sole on a few years ago with black poly eurothane and it worked OK but yo needs a long time to dry.

So I did some research recently and decide to try some gorilla Grip. Re glued the alpine stars and so far it looks like it is working well. I also put a leather patch on my sons boots directly over a big hole and it stayed on, So far i am impressed with this glue. This glue need clamping for a couple of hours and is good to go in 24hrs. Clamping was with copious amount of staples.

Any better ideas on gluing out there????



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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby Takhli44 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:06 am

Stanm wrote:
So I did some research recently and decide to try some gorilla Grip. Re glued the alpine stars and so far it looks like it is working well. I also put a leather patch on my sons boots directly over a big hole and it stayed on, So far i am impressed with this glue. This glue need clamping for a couple of hours and is good to go in 24hrs. Clamping was with copious amount of staples.

Any better ideas on gluing out there????


Our stuff in the USA is called "Gorilla Glue" which I suspect is the same stuff, you wet the material to be glued and clamp it after. I repaired some broken stitching on Hebo's about two years ago thinking it wouldn't hold but it is still solid. I'm impressed and have found nothing better. A shoe repair guy told me to use it on the sole if his glue didn't hold but said it couldn't be resoled after.


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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby pop » Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:18 am

Iv tried most glues on boot soles, the only one that worked for me was superglue gel, but only if no other glue has been used, apart from original, which could be something similar. Has to be clamped for a day minimum.



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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby Tee-Why » Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:15 pm

Glue - for boots, I have used Sikaflex, it's a polyurethane and is flexable and high bonding. Needs the usual set time overnight clamped etc. only downside is cost, need to buy as caulking tube and gun, don't really get the value out of the tube as it goes off by the next time you find a use again.


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Re: Tank Dent removal - Other than cutting and welding

Postby Stanm » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:40 pm

Yeh Pop I know what you mean about the sikafex going off. I keep all my glues in a fridge and the sikaflex polyeurothane still gets wasted. Someone told me that the Gorilla glue has a similar problem and it goes off after a while.

Any way the gorilla glue was tested out on my sons boot in a pretty wet 2 day Vic championships. This patch of thick but soft leather was put over a large hole on the side of his boot. Two day of wet comp and no sign of coming off. I don't think I know any other glue that would produce this result. Now I am really impressed.
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