Page 7 of 11
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:51 am
Yes a groove would help. It doesn't take much force to get it out, there are just no edges to get a grip on.
I'm still keen on knowing if it is possible to remove it without making a mark of some sort in the aluminium.
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:44 pm
I have emailed Falcon re maintenance and spares on the Classic steel shocks but no reply so far.
I have a couple of other issues to discuss
I saw a trick lever with 3 positions for the cable lug and was told that it made the lever quite easy to use. This would help me as I often get Hand cramps. I would appreciate ideas on these type of efficient levers.
I am also expetiencing trouble changing into higher gears so any hints on this??
I got a good hint today. My boys Gas Gas got a small crack in the aluminuim tank so i patched it up with epoxy putty. It was not sucessful so today googled aluminium soldering. I believe you can get resin filled solder suitable for aluminium. But i saw a small article that suggested using engine oil as a flux with normal solder and it actually worked. I did a test on 2mm thick alum, you need a big soldering iron to do this, first you scratch the oxid layer off the aluminuim with a razor kife, put a drop of clean motor oil on and then rubbed the soldering iron back and forth applying the solder to the iron.
Hope this helps
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:35 pm
If the lever with the 3 positions is the same as what I think, they work pretty well on the clutch side of my TY250 and KT250 using the position that gives the most leverage. I haven't found a use for the other two positions yet. You do need a pretty big hand to use them.
If the cable end is longer than the knob diameter (like on a standard TY cable), you will need to widen the slot in the lever or reduce the diameter of the cable end for it to work without bending the inner cable with the lever fully pulled in.
That lever doesn't make that much difference to the leverage maybe 20% less force. I found the best improvement in reducing the clutch pull was making a new cable using modern low friction cable outer.
AMAL levers have a similar leverage ratio to the highest leverage ratio (easiest pull) setting on those three-way levers but look a bit out of place on a Yamaha.
It is usually better to fit a longer arm on the motor end of the cable rather than increase the leverage the handlebar end but I haven't worked out how to do that properly on a TY250 yet because if you extend the lever it hits part of the casing and if you bend the lever away from the casing to clear that bit, it rubs on the bashplate.
About gear selection:
Have you checked the indexing plunger for the shift drum yet?
Maybe the spring that centralises the shift claws (behind the clutch basket)is tired or broken or the shift shaft action is sticky (does the shifter move freely?) The claws have to move back fully after each shift for the next shift to work properly. I've never had to fiddle with this on a TY250 but it could happen.
That aluminium soldering sounds interesting. I wonder if using that solder prevents having a subsequent MIG weld repair at the repair site.
Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:02 pm
David I took your advice and used a bit of stainless steel and extended the lever on the motor. First attempt i extended 35mm which cleared Ok but made the pull to long so i reduced it to about 25mm. This worked well and feel much lighter. Great idea Thanks. Can supply photos if requested.
I found the problem with changing into higher gears was simply the gearlever was bent and hitting the indent bit in the A's casing. Wont fall for that again!
As regards to the Aluminium soldering I have reversed my feelings on this as the tank has sprung a leak twice since. I have an oxy and aluminium flux but not to keen on the idea of welding a petrol tank with oxy. Anyone got any suggestions on best way to do this or buy other methods? May be a job for a pro.
Falcon still have not replied to my enquiry re shock maintenance.
Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:21 pm
Yes please Stan it would be good to see photos of how you did the clutch arm extension.
Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:36 pm
Here are the photos and some details of the my TY250A clutch lightening Mods. Photos are a bit blurred but should be sufficient to get the idea
Both the motor lever and the cable mount were modified.
Motor lever was extended by 25 mm using 1mm steel folded over to wrap around the existing lever. The lever was then held in place with only one bolt using the original hole in the lever. The lever size was 18 mm X 50 ( So the materail size was 36X50) Picture shows the extra hole at 35mm which was to big a pull for the clutch lever.
The cable mount was extended out 30mm to get the pull lined up. I used 3mm steel ( material size 20X60)
I have had a few rides and find myself using the clutch with one finger so I am pretty happy with this mod. If anyone need more detail just ask.
I am starting to work on the falcon shocks and have a few ideas on getting them apart without damage. But without your hints David i would have done damage to some of the components. I will share my findings with you.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:53 pm
Good job on that clutch arm. I bet it is nice to use.
Something else about Falcon shocks. I have previously only had 40, 50 and 60 lb/in springs and noticed that they were made from the same diameter wire with different numbers of coils to provide the different spring rates.
Last week I bought a pair of 70 lb/in Falcon springs and they have the same number of coils as the 60 lb/in springs, but the wire is thicker.
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:25 pm
I have a method for getting the wiper seal housing out of the Falcons.
1/ Grind a stanley knife blade so it is sharp at for 1/3 at one end and blade completly gone at the last third. Use this with a hammer to get the housing out to the thickness of the blade. Start with the sharp end and work your way to the blunt end slowly working your way around.
2/ Install the Pipe tool , a tight fit washer and then a 1 1/4 (32mm) circlip ground down on one side ( A little difficult to install)
3/ Fit in vice and use a stilson and screwdriver to stop shock rotating. Note if the tool does not fit tight to the shock you need a tight fit washer otherwise the circlip will bend.
4/ On the first shock i did the main seal housing was stuck so I put the shock in the freezer overnight and this helped. The pipe tool is also handy to get the extra height if the main seal housing is stuck.
If you need more details please advise
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:30 pm
More photos of Falcon Shock Seal Housing Removal
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:41 pm
More Falcon Photos