Thanks mate. I hope they turn out good.
Two of my clutch covers have arrived from the states. YESSSS!
I picked them up for nicks. One more is on the way (I got a little click crazy).
I have more Australia Post slips in the mail. Hopefully it's my B & J Racing stuff.
I'll know tomorrow when I go to pick it up.
Suzuki RL250 Mania
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
Hey Westy
I am enjoying the read.
Would you be kind enough to explain the "dry ice" trick of ding removal.
Alastair
I am enjoying the read.
Would you be kind enough to explain the "dry ice" trick of ding removal.
Alastair
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
I read that if you place dry ice on a ding, wait until the metal goes frosty and then stick the tank in the sun, the ding will retract.
The limitations given for this include dings with a crease.
It makes sense to me. The cold temperatures make the steel contract. The uniformed stresses pull to flatten the ding. Letting it warm in the sun allows a slow temperture change. Obviuosly the ding would come close to being flat and and then you will need to bog the rest or beat it out.
I notices that it did work. It brought one ding out by about four millimetrers.
When I stuck the dry ice on the bare aluminium tank (i had polished the clear coat back) the ice vibrated voilently. There must be a reaction between dry ice and alimunuim to cause the ice to be repelled from the material.
The limitations given for this include dings with a crease.
It makes sense to me. The cold temperatures make the steel contract. The uniformed stresses pull to flatten the ding. Letting it warm in the sun allows a slow temperture change. Obviuosly the ding would come close to being flat and and then you will need to bog the rest or beat it out.
I notices that it did work. It brought one ding out by about four millimetrers.
When I stuck the dry ice on the bare aluminium tank (i had polished the clear coat back) the ice vibrated voilently. There must be a reaction between dry ice and alimunuim to cause the ice to be repelled from the material.
Is it time to ride yet?
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
News! News! News!
I went to the post office in between classes at uni but not before going to work and eating all the cake.
I picked up my package from B & J Racing. They gave me a B & J Racing Sticker. How cool! It's a good looking sticker.
Tonight I am going to install my brake cable and test it out again. The cable from B & J is 2mm gal and not the rubbish stainless steel piece of junk I received from the brake place in Wollongong.
For a spare I have found Consolidated Cables in Sydney. I have not tried them yet. Has anyone had any brake cables made by them?
Fun Fun Fun.
I went to the post office in between classes at uni but not before going to work and eating all the cake.
I picked up my package from B & J Racing. They gave me a B & J Racing Sticker. How cool! It's a good looking sticker.
Tonight I am going to install my brake cable and test it out again. The cable from B & J is 2mm gal and not the rubbish stainless steel piece of junk I received from the brake place in Wollongong.
For a spare I have found Consolidated Cables in Sydney. I have not tried them yet. Has anyone had any brake cables made by them?
Fun Fun Fun.
Is it time to ride yet?
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
Hey Westy
I make up most of my own cables from rolls of inner and outer, but if you want cables made for you there is an Aussie cablemaker who seems popular on the OZVMX forum. I can't remember the blokes name but I think the company is called REMAR cables.
Some people like the Venhill brand of aftermarket control cables made in the UK.
David
I make up most of my own cables from rolls of inner and outer, but if you want cables made for you there is an Aussie cablemaker who seems popular on the OZVMX forum. I can't remember the blokes name but I think the company is called REMAR cables.
Some people like the Venhill brand of aftermarket control cables made in the UK.
David
relax, nothing is under control
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
Westy wrote:When I stuck the dry ice on the bare aluminium tank (i had polished the clear coat back) the ice vibrated voilently. There must be a reaction between dry ice and alimunuim to cause the ice to be repelled from the material.
Yes the reaction is the solid CO2 turning to gaseous CO2 using heat absorbed from the aluminium. The vibration is from the gas forming an unstable layer between the dry ice and the tank surface. The repelling force is generated by the vapour pressure of the CO2 which is about 5500 kPa at room temperature.
relax, nothing is under control
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
David. Thanks for the lead on the cables. I'll look into it because I would like to have a spare.
By the way... "Who are you who are so wise in the ways of science?"
Are you a scientist? I reckon the details you rattled off are quite interesting. ...Or did you look it up on Wikipedia? ha ha ha. I wouldn't think you're a scientist if you have been impressing the ladies on your TY. Scientists can be cool. What about the dude in Sahara. I'd like to be him throwing Penelope Cruz around. Like riding a Spanish motorcycle.
One thing is for sure. You're not an accountant.
On the note of cables. The B & J cable is 2mm gal. PERFECT!
It fit like a dream. It could be two inches longer over all but that's just to get around the headlight.
I tried the bike out in the court yard again. Unlike the other rubbish cable, the bike locked the wheel. Unlike the other cable, the bike stopped. Unlike the other cable the bike decelerated. Unlike the other cable, this one didn't snap within five minutes.
Tonight I also polished the front rim. SHINEY!
I began to polish the front shock. I reckon I'll rub them back with some wet and dry, polish them and clear coat them. Yeah. That would look unreal!
Also, the B & J gear lever is build like a tank. It's great and very springy.
I have been coming to a conclusion of the colour scheme for the RL.
Guards, tank and side covers all orange. Frame, a bright perhaps reflective silver.
Maybe... maybe a Monaro style stripe in black down the top of all the orange bits. One thick stripe next to a thinner stripe. Or maybe just one thick one offset from centre.
By the way... "Who are you who are so wise in the ways of science?"
Are you a scientist? I reckon the details you rattled off are quite interesting. ...Or did you look it up on Wikipedia? ha ha ha. I wouldn't think you're a scientist if you have been impressing the ladies on your TY. Scientists can be cool. What about the dude in Sahara. I'd like to be him throwing Penelope Cruz around. Like riding a Spanish motorcycle.
One thing is for sure. You're not an accountant.
On the note of cables. The B & J cable is 2mm gal. PERFECT!
It fit like a dream. It could be two inches longer over all but that's just to get around the headlight.
I tried the bike out in the court yard again. Unlike the other rubbish cable, the bike locked the wheel. Unlike the other cable, the bike stopped. Unlike the other cable the bike decelerated. Unlike the other cable, this one didn't snap within five minutes.
Tonight I also polished the front rim. SHINEY!
I began to polish the front shock. I reckon I'll rub them back with some wet and dry, polish them and clear coat them. Yeah. That would look unreal!
Also, the B & J gear lever is build like a tank. It's great and very springy.
I have been coming to a conclusion of the colour scheme for the RL.
Guards, tank and side covers all orange. Frame, a bright perhaps reflective silver.
Maybe... maybe a Monaro style stripe in black down the top of all the orange bits. One thick stripe next to a thinner stripe. Or maybe just one thick one offset from centre.
Is it time to ride yet?
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
Hi Westy
I too am enjoying the read. One question for David: How does the molassas trick work and what consistency do you use. When I used to give it to the cows we had, it was a thick gooey mess that didnt pour unless you left it in the sun.
Alan
I too am enjoying the read. One question for David: How does the molassas trick work and what consistency do you use. When I used to give it to the cows we had, it was a thick gooey mess that didnt pour unless you left it in the sun.
Alan
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
The molasses I get from the local feed barn is just able to be poured from the 2 litre milk bottles it comes in (like the thickness of honey) so I guess it has been thinned down a bit compared to your molasses. I thin it a bit more so any bubbles can move freely through it.
Are you the big Al from Townsville?
Are you the big Al from Townsville?
relax, nothing is under control
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Suzuki RL250 Exacta Mania
Oh yeah - I have no idea how it works. I just learned it from people who restore vintage cars. They use big tanks to fit car body parts in for treatment.
I started using it first on a set of Cota 348 forks that had sat full of water for many years. I plugged one end of the fork tubes and left them standing full for a couple of weeks. After the molasses soak, the rust had disappeared and the finish on the inside of the tubes didn't need any further attention. There was pitting left from the time the water was in there bit I don't know anything that can fix that!
Later on I tried the molasses trick on the inside of a couple of steel fuel tanks and it worked great there too, leaving a grey satin finish on the steel.
I started using it first on a set of Cota 348 forks that had sat full of water for many years. I plugged one end of the fork tubes and left them standing full for a couple of weeks. After the molasses soak, the rust had disappeared and the finish on the inside of the tubes didn't need any further attention. There was pitting left from the time the water was in there bit I don't know anything that can fix that!
Later on I tried the molasses trick on the inside of a couple of steel fuel tanks and it worked great there too, leaving a grey satin finish on the steel.
relax, nothing is under control
Return to “Twinshock & Classic Trials”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 25 guests