KT250 resto...help appreciated

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Warren
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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby Warren » Mon Jul 20, 2009 7:26 pm

Hi
If you google Ultrasonic you should be able to find a place in Sydney to do it.
Can you tell me more about your electrolytic rust conversion please

Cheers
Warren



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garrison
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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby garrison » Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:43 am

I've searched for a place in Sydney to no avail. Lots of places will sell me an ultrasonic cleaner, which if it wasn't for the $3000+ price I'd consider, lol.

Without being facetious, google electrolytic rust conversion or similar. There's many web pages with smarter and more eloquent descriptions than I could offer. :wink:

I've got a 1 amp charger set up with various bits of wire and reo inside the tank. Seemed to be do the trick. As it's doing the inside of the tank it's a PITA setting it up so there's not a short circuit, however. Side benefit is it lifts a lot of the old crud from inside the tank if it's in a rusty area. Way more than I got out with fuel and other solvents.

Next step may be immersion of the tank to do the bits on the outside. This will stuff the paint, however, so I may end up resorting to the grinder for the external bits and just doing a touch up job.



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garrison
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Front brake differences?

Postby garrison » Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:47 am

Just looking at getting an OEM front brake cable and it looks like there's 2 different style front brake arms for the A and the A2. Mine's an A going by the chassis number, but it has the A2 paint job with the stripes.

Any ideas? :-k



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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby David Lahey » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:32 pm

garrison wrote:I've searched for a place in Sydney to no avail. Lots of places will sell me an ultrasonic cleaner, which if it wasn't for the $3000+ price I'd consider, lol.

Without being facetious, google electrolytic rust conversion or similar. There's many web pages with smarter and more eloquent descriptions than I could offer. :wink:

I've got a 1 amp charger set up with various bits of wire and reo inside the tank. Seemed to be do the trick. As it's doing the inside of the tank it's a PITA setting it up so there's not a short circuit, however. Side benefit is it lifts a lot of the old crud from inside the tank if it's in a rusty area. Way more than I got out with fuel and other solvents.

Next step may be immersion of the tank to do the bits on the outside. This will stuff the paint, however, so I may end up resorting to the grinder for the external bits and just doing a touch up job.

The electric rust treatment sounds like hard work to me. Whats wrong with either molasses or phosphoric acid? I prefer the molasses because of the great finish it leaves (and I like the smell?????).
Scorps did at least one of his KT tanks with the standard commercial internal treatment for steel motorbike tanks so you may get some info from him on that when he gets back within range of the internet.


relax, nothing is under control

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Re: Front brake differences?

Postby David Lahey » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:38 pm

garrison wrote:Just looking at getting an OEM front brake cable and it looks like there's 2 different style front brake arms for the A and the A2. Mine's an A going by the chassis number, but it has the A2 paint job with the stripes.

Any ideas? :-k

Yes there are two different arms. Not certain but I think the standard cable fits both. the difference is in the shape of the arm but the end with the cable nipple hole ends up in the same spot on both. Don't quote me though as my memory is a bit dodgy on this. Scorps went through this only a few months ago and sorted it out. I remember talking with him about it. I think he used a Venhill cable though rather than Kawasaki.


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Scorps
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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby Scorps » Wed Jul 22, 2009 2:26 pm

Howdy Y'all,

Hi David, finally made it back to QLD, just putting final touches on the 2 KT's now, will be right to go come the weekend.

Dino,

In regards to the tank restoring - you can go with the following kits:
KBS coatings - http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-MotorCycle-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_13.html
POR15 - http://www.ppc.au.com/kits3.htm

I have used the KBS kit and it worked a treat, although I added a few extra steps to get it top notch.
1. Drain tank
2. Give it an initial rinse with hot soapy water - check if the tank has any pinholes. Get these brazed before continuing.
3. Clean using cleaner in kit as per instructions.
4. Go buy some CLR kitchen cleaner, out this in the tank with some small metal screws. Shake this around for a while to hit the heavy rust. Dry thoroughly.
5. Use the derust/primer in the kit as per instructions.
6. Use the sealer as per instructions.

And your good to go. I just bought the POR-15 kit to try on my third bike, but haven't done it yet.

As far as the front brake cables go - there are 2 different arms, to suit 2 different front brake cables. I bought a front Venhill cable and it seems to suit the larger of the arms. The NOS front cable I bought of Ebay also suited the larger arm. Unfortunately the only spares I have is the short arm.

**UPDATE** Just checked my original KT250-A2 workshop manual, and it appears the A2 has the larger brake arm. Also, I just remembered that the front brake plate fits some other Kawasaki (possibly KE125) but can't remember - it is possible that the short arms are from the different bike.

I have attached some pics of various things for your reference.

Cheers,
Your friendly neighbourhood Scorpa(Kawi)man,
Scorps
Attachments
New tank.JPG
Internal treated.JPG
Different arms.JPG
A2 Front brake.JPG


Children are smarter than any of us. Know how I know that? I don't know one child with a full time job and children.
1981 Fantic 240 Professional
1976 Kawasaki KT250 (x2)
1975 Kawasaki KT250
1975 Kawasaki KT250

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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby Scorps » Wed Jul 22, 2009 2:36 pm

Howdy Y'all,

On another note - I am chasing an original KT chain guard for KT no3. If anyone has one I would be keen to buy or trade. I have a variety of parts available so let me know.

Also, was just lucky enough to pick up a NOS oil pump cover from dealer stock in Brisbane! Bits are still around if you check!

Cheers,
Your friendly neighbourhood Scorpa(Kawi)man,
Scorps


Children are smarter than any of us. Know how I know that? I don't know one child with a full time job and children.
1981 Fantic 240 Professional
1976 Kawasaki KT250 (x2)
1975 Kawasaki KT250
1975 Kawasaki KT250

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garrison
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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby garrison » Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:02 pm

Excellent info there, thanks guys. 8)

That different arms pic is exactly what I'm after, Scorps. =D>



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garrison
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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby garrison » Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:55 pm

David Lahey wrote:The electric rust treatment sounds like hard work to me. Whats wrong with either molasses or phosphoric acid? I prefer the molasses because of the great finish it leaves (and I like the smell?????)....


Having used neither method before, and in the pursuit of instant gratification, I thought I'd try the electrolytic method. It's done a good job overall. I think I'll soak it in molasses too. Just to get into all the nooks and crannies. Do you know if the molasses method will ruin paint? can't imagine it'd be good for it. :?



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Re: KT250 resto...help appreciated

Postby David Lahey » Sun Jul 26, 2009 7:29 pm

I haven't tried treating painted things with molasses. Have successfully done insides of steel fork tubes and insides of steel fuel tanks.


relax, nothing is under control


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