Honda TLR

Need help finding information or parts for that old machine in your shed? Someone in here will know!

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Bigem
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Re: Honda TLR

Postby Bigem » Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:00 pm

keychange wrote:Andrew

How do you tell which is worn - or is it a case of replace both at 4 euros each pin :( and I can't find the bushes any suggestions?

Andrew Hunter



Take the pins out of the sprocket and stick them in the bushes, it won't be hard to work out where the wear is; pins, bushes,hub.

I have seen guys turn-up nylon bushes to fit the hub and then sleeve the old pins to fit the bushes. They last heaps longer than the jello Honda call's rubber!!

A good machinist should be able to fix the problem in no time if that's the case.



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:58 am

Bigem

It would appear to be the pins - I will rig something up.

Now I have it in workable pieces I just need to tidy it up and then get it all back together again.

Ross Brown tells me his TLR doesn't have a battery - I don't intend to reinstall the lights - is there any precaution I should take ie: avoid damage to CDI - in rewiring without the battery?
Attachments
tlrbits.jpg
tlrbits.jpg (92.46 KiB) Viewed 4669 times



brownie
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Re: Honda TLR

Postby brownie » Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:50 pm

Hey Andrew I have a both wiring diagrams, in colour,with and without the crap give us a yell if you need them.
Cheers Ross



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:30 pm

Thanks Ross -what would I do without you. A guy on the UK forum reckons just remove the lights and all their wiring - he reckons the CDI doesn't rely on battery so nothing special required. Sounds good

BTW - I found a crowd in UK who do spoke kits
Spokes & Nipples Minimum 10 spokes 28/32 spokes per set 36/40 Spokes per set
Galvanised Spokes & Zinc/Steel nipples £13.00 £34.00 £42.00
Polished Stainless & nickel/brass nipples £17.00 £48.00 £60.00
Polished Butted Stainless & nickel/Brass nipples £20.00 £56.00 £70.00

I can't find anyone in OZ offering spoke kits

Andrew



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Thu Aug 26, 2010 6:54 pm

I am getting sick of having to wait for CMS holland to find my idle jet and so I have again tried to unblock the old one - but I can't for the life of me move the blockage. I am using a wire about 0.50mm thick - anything thinner is too soft. I have soaked this in acetone, descale fluid, vinegar I have prodded and twisted fro hours with no movement at all - blocked solid - any ideas?

Andrew



David Lahey
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Re: Honda TLR

Postby David Lahey » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:07 pm

If the blockage is polymerised petrol, use carby cleaner spray
If the blockage is wasp nest or corrosion product, use an ultrasonic parts cleaner (commonly found at jeweller's shops and optometrists)
Another option for loosening the blockage is to warm it up


relax, nothing is under control

Bigem
B grade participant
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Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:55 pm
Bike: Looking!

Re: Honda TLR

Postby Bigem » Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:42 pm

I have used oxy tip cleaning files to clear jet blockages in the past.

Drills bits for drilling electronic PCB boards from any electronics shop work well to and they are sized.



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:56 pm

David

used carby cleaner ( sorry forgot to mention ) no jewelers withing an hours drive and I heated to red hot (after trying various lesser heats)

I think someone in the past has tried to unblock and broken some wire in the jet - probably the reason it was left leaning against the shed in the first place

Steel guitar strings are very stiff and strong I can't get a .33mm string or 0.25mm through a size 40 jet :(



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:11 pm

Success after nearly 3 hours I forced a guitar string through the jet and bent the end in the process :( Looks like I wait for CMS



keychange

Re: Honda TLR

Postby keychange » Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:40 pm

Progress is slow - still waiting on parts - but clean up is progressing well. As I mentioned before I don't intend to refit the lights and so the ignition switch etc is superfluous to my needs however it looks like I need to take a grinder to the top bracket to remove it or can anyone suggest a simple trick that I am missing. The caps arrowed in the image below appear to be bolts threaded into the bracket or do the caps pop off to reveal hex nuts (I did try but nothing gave)
Attachments
topbracket.jpg




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