Just got a new to me TLR 200 and I need some advice on parts and improvements.
Does anyone have a list of year ID numbers for these to check its birthday? Frame number is MD09 1009195 and the Engine number is MD09E-1012897.
What size sprockets are people running for trials? Mine is running a 12/44 at the moment and I read a reference to a 10/50 in the USA.
Standard shocks would be fine on an XR but a bit hard and slow for trials so experience here would help.
Front fork mods could be a big help as well.
Carb. is a bit fluttery and I put this down to the open heart surgery on the rear muffler so maybe a bit of Jetting will cure this as well.
The dents in the tank appear to be "Factory" and provided for knee gripping to tame the savage power delivery.
I am open to all input and think it should be a lot of fun to have a trials bike again. I rode with Western Districts in Brisbane in the Eighties but not a lot since. I did baby sit a pink TY 250 (disc Front) for a while which was fun and then a later Sherco 250 which was a handful at times.
Fettling a TLR 200
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- Junior participant
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- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:22 pm
- Bike: Honda TLR200
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Hi Michael
Welcome to 'Team Honda'
Lots of people are working on TLR200's and 250's right now, they have become very popular over the last few years. For every reply you will probably get a differing idea as to what works but for what it's worth, here's my take:
Gearing is 10 : 48, I originally used the standard hubs but last year rebuilt my bike to run TLM200 hubs which are the same as the TLR250 and have a 15mm diameter axle. The rear sprocket bolts directly and I now use a 9: 44. If you do change the hubs you will need to slot the swingarm to accomodate the larger axle and you also need to increase the dimension of the retaining lug for the brake plate.
Front forks on my bike are standard, I run 2.5 weight oil but make sure the chrome is clean otherwise they can leak. Steve H has done more development on his 250 with some trick valves, i'll be doing the same on my 250 in the next few months.
Engine is totally standard, you really don't need to do too much once it is running nicely, they are very tough little motors. Carb is original but with new needle and seat. The bikes tend to make the seat go ovaloid due to the amount of slow speed, tickover work that goes on. Just changing this makes a big difference. I have a nice alloy muffler from japan on my bike and have found that #38 #100 jetting is the most efficient but this will vary depending upon various parameters.
Shocks are really a matter of budget, I had some standard Falcons which were great now I run alloy bodied Rockshox from UK, they are very easy to tune and work perfectly for me.
I changed the front wheel to a TLM200 hub, again, same as the TLR250. Just a bit stronger brake but you don't need to.
Original tank and seat is heavy. I didtched it for a one piece unit (but crashed so often it is now full of holes) now I have a replica TLR250 fibreglass tank again from UK.
Here's a link to my rebuild photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1067381249 ... NC3muyvlQE
and a photo from our first trial earlier this year when the one pice tank was still 'wothout hole'.
A million detail changes, throttle is a slow action. Header is titanium, custom bashplate (I have made some locally so if you want one just let me know.) Gear lever is from a beta. Alloy footpegs are from Japan. Footpeg mounts are lowered and moved back. Alloy side stand..... it goes on..... I just need a decent rider and it will be great.
All the best
Andy
Welcome to 'Team Honda'
Lots of people are working on TLR200's and 250's right now, they have become very popular over the last few years. For every reply you will probably get a differing idea as to what works but for what it's worth, here's my take:
Gearing is 10 : 48, I originally used the standard hubs but last year rebuilt my bike to run TLM200 hubs which are the same as the TLR250 and have a 15mm diameter axle. The rear sprocket bolts directly and I now use a 9: 44. If you do change the hubs you will need to slot the swingarm to accomodate the larger axle and you also need to increase the dimension of the retaining lug for the brake plate.
Front forks on my bike are standard, I run 2.5 weight oil but make sure the chrome is clean otherwise they can leak. Steve H has done more development on his 250 with some trick valves, i'll be doing the same on my 250 in the next few months.
Engine is totally standard, you really don't need to do too much once it is running nicely, they are very tough little motors. Carb is original but with new needle and seat. The bikes tend to make the seat go ovaloid due to the amount of slow speed, tickover work that goes on. Just changing this makes a big difference. I have a nice alloy muffler from japan on my bike and have found that #38 #100 jetting is the most efficient but this will vary depending upon various parameters.
Shocks are really a matter of budget, I had some standard Falcons which were great now I run alloy bodied Rockshox from UK, they are very easy to tune and work perfectly for me.
I changed the front wheel to a TLM200 hub, again, same as the TLR250. Just a bit stronger brake but you don't need to.
Original tank and seat is heavy. I didtched it for a one piece unit (but crashed so often it is now full of holes) now I have a replica TLR250 fibreglass tank again from UK.
Here's a link to my rebuild photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1067381249 ... NC3muyvlQE
and a photo from our first trial earlier this year when the one pice tank was still 'wothout hole'.
A million detail changes, throttle is a slow action. Header is titanium, custom bashplate (I have made some locally so if you want one just let me know.) Gear lever is from a beta. Alloy footpegs are from Japan. Footpeg mounts are lowered and moved back. Alloy side stand..... it goes on..... I just need a decent rider and it will be great.
All the best
Andy
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
A good exhaust and new carb will make a TLR200 run considerably stronger.............Exhaust Andy has on his bike looks like it will work well, but avoid the Delkovic ones as they are very restrictive. OKO 24mm carbs for the TLR are available from OKO Australia, and a complete kit with everything needed to fit to bike are sold by B&J Racing in the US.
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- Junior participant
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:22 pm
- Bike: Honda TLR200
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Thanks guys that is a great start. I will chip away at a few pieces and see where I end up.
It is amazing how hard it is to "go slow" again with any accuracy.At this stage my plan is to have a ride each afternoon to regain some fitness and control and then have a beer.
Just went through your photo diary Andrew and it all looks good. Is Re-zincing those parts easy enough to do to a consistent result and did most of them go in one batch?
It is amazing how hard it is to "go slow" again with any accuracy.At this stage my plan is to have a ride each afternoon to regain some fitness and control and then have a beer.
Just went through your photo diary Andrew and it all looks good. Is Re-zincing those parts easy enough to do to a consistent result and did most of them go in one batch?
Cheers from Micheal.
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Michael
Replating is quite easy but to get good results you just have to be very thorough with cleaning and preparation.
I probably did three or four batches for the whole lot, axles and haevier items in one go, then maybe footpeg pins and bolts next etc etc.
I have to thanks Steve Harvie and Geoff King as it was there gear that I borrowed.
Cheers
Replating is quite easy but to get good results you just have to be very thorough with cleaning and preparation.
I probably did three or four batches for the whole lot, axles and haevier items in one go, then maybe footpeg pins and bolts next etc etc.
I have to thanks Steve Harvie and Geoff King as it was there gear that I borrowed.
Cheers
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
..... also noticed you already have a TLR250 front wheel so you should have decent brakes up front. I reckon it's from a TLR250 mono due to the colour of the rim ??
Andy
Andy
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- Junior participant
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:22 pm
- Bike: Honda TLR200
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Who makes the best manual / handbook for these TLR 200's?
Cheers from Micheal.
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Genuine Honda one is best.............think there is a guy in NZ who has this manual on his web site?
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- Junior participant
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:22 pm
- Bike: Honda TLR200
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Found the above mentioned Manual and here is a link to a downloadable PDF.
" http://www.honda-trials.com/_sgg/m8m3_1.htm "
This should be a big help.
" http://www.honda-trials.com/_sgg/m8m3_1.htm "
This should be a big help.
Cheers from Micheal.
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- Junior participant
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:22 pm
- Bike: Honda TLR200
Re: Fettling a TLR 200
Who is best to deal with regarding spare parts from Honda? The locals are having trouble so if anyone has good reports from dealing with overseas suppliers some names would be appreciated.
I am chasing a front sprocket in either 9 or 10 teeth. Front brake cable and maybe some carburettor parts. If anyone has some Honda Part Numbers for any items it might be a big help.
I am chasing a front sprocket in either 9 or 10 teeth. Front brake cable and maybe some carburettor parts. If anyone has some Honda Part Numbers for any items it might be a big help.
Cheers from Micheal.
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