TLR Engine Reassembly
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
Sure enough the spring is supposed to sit on a small ledge in the casing and had slipped down and so no real pressure was on the arm - I have fixed that however it has improved but all is still not right. The noise now sounds like a noisy sticky tappet - clack clack clack but it doesn't have tappets - to me the cam chain feels almost too tight even without the tensioner it was difficult to fit.
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
FM350.
If Keychange had of used the Honda method with the spring in the wrong place he surely would have had the chain slip teeth and ended up with bent valves.
Keychange.
Have you set the valve clearances? Was the motor nice and quiet before you pulled it down? When fitting the head and cam the tensioner needs to be backed off to allow easier fitting but it is still a bit of a trick to get the chain on. Is the motor running correctly now?
If Keychange had of used the Honda method with the spring in the wrong place he surely would have had the chain slip teeth and ended up with bent valves.
Keychange.
Have you set the valve clearances? Was the motor nice and quiet before you pulled it down? When fitting the head and cam the tensioner needs to be backed off to allow easier fitting but it is still a bit of a trick to get the chain on. Is the motor running correctly now?
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
This noise was not in the motor to start with just a bit of chain rattle and some smoke on starting - I replaced valve stem seals - the motor now runs fine albeit I am not game to rev it until I fix the noise - the chain is very snug ( it is brand new) and no sign of play in the cam shaft - although I really need to remove the chain to check properly as the chain is holding it quite firmly. I will double check the clearances.
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- Expert participant
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- Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:38 am
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- Club: Wester districs trials club
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
If you back off the tensioner by removing the 6mm inspection screw in the top of the tensioner you can use a small rod to push the tensioner rod down when you undo the 14mm tensioner nut, once backed of tighten it again. Now you can check the cam play.
I don't think that is your problem as it wasn't a noise there before the rebiuld and they don't become sloppy over night.
What method did you use to adjust the valve clearances and what did you set them to? Didn't mix up mm with inches?
The clearance is meant to be .002" or .05mm.
I don't think that is your problem as it wasn't a noise there before the rebiuld and they don't become sloppy over night.
What method did you use to adjust the valve clearances and what did you set them to? Didn't mix up mm with inches?
The clearance is meant to be .002" or .05mm.
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
What was the reason you stripped motor for in the first place, and did you fit genuine Honda parts?
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
FM350 wrote:What was the reason you stripped motor for in the first place, and did you fit genuine Honda parts?
At some stage the kick start - probably without the limiter fitted - had gone around and broken or cracked the internal case - without actually causing structural damage - just knocked a lump of metal off. I discovered this when one day riding (after 12 months owning) I heard a very unnatural metalic grinding in the engine. I stripped the engine and found the aluminium shreds and some pieces in the cases. I inspected and cleaned everything meticulously - I checked the main bearings turning by hand for days and they ran smoothly and cleanly. I replaced the other bearings - OEM but good quality (no eBay) in the cases and oil seals, valve stem seals etc using all Honda parts - except for the gasket set. At every stage I checked the operation and everything turned and meshed nicely.
When I reinstalled the valves I gave them a light lapping however I didn't check the clearances after the initial cold reinstall and so they may not have bedded properly and now once running they have beddedand the clearance is too great - I should have though of that
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
Ok............it seems to me things should be fine, but always a good idea to check valve clearances after building the motor, then again after initial start up and run of about 20-30 minutes, and adjust cam chain at same time. Its also a good idea to remove the auto decompressor mechanism and fit a manual lever on the bars, and get used to using this when starting the bike.
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
Valves were only slightly tight but bad news the knock (and it is now a knock) is worse - sounds really bad - back to the bench I guess
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
this is a bit unrelated but I once had a Mitsubishi dealer rebuild the rear diff and then realise that the problem was the front wheel hub.
Re: TLR Engine Reassembly
Only a thought, but would it not be an idea to get help from someone who is experienced with building these motors? They are pretty simple, but its very easy to make mistakes if you are not familiar with them, which can result in a lot of wasted time and additional expense.
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