TLR Engine Reassembly

Need help finding information or parts for that old machine in your shed? Someone in here will know!

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TriCub
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby TriCub » Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:34 pm

Bruised means dented or pushed in. The photos are realy hard to see compared to holding it your hand.
If you have managed to bend a tooth even slightly your decision to by another is probably the best option as I would think that the offending tooth would have fractured the case hardening layer on one side and potentially break some time in the future.



Andy M
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby Andy M » Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:29 pm

Am I the only one who can not see any problem with the tooth in the pics. :? Not doubting what you have found but the pics don't seem to show it??



keychange
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby keychange » Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:53 pm

Andy M wrote:Am I the only one who can not see any problem with the tooth in the pics. :? Not doubting what you have found but the pics don't seem to show it??


No Andy I think you will find that I have several time along the lines of "there is no visible problem with the tooth" - but I can assure you that the primary gear is binding on that and that tooth only.



FM350
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby FM350 » Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:33 am

If thats the case then why not investigate the possibility of a slip stone (as suggested earilier), or simply replace the damaged parts?



pop
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby pop » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:08 am

just looking at those pictures :shock: all that overhanging pig iron would be polished off and maybe shot peened, back in the TL era :-"



keychange
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby keychange » Tue Aug 21, 2012 2:05 pm

The replacement clutch basket has arrived from Alaska and is now fitted ...... the clunk is gone =D>



keychange
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby keychange » Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:02 pm

I finally had the time today to fully reassemble the bike - that bloody air box gets me every time, forget and have to remove the the wheel and exhaust to get it in :oops: and the decompression lever is a pain in neck I can't fit or remove it (or case cover) without releasing the swing arm and the right rear shock in order to let it squeeze past ... I feel like throwing the blasted thing away - but I won't.

She starts first kick and a bit smoky from cold under choke but clears quickly. There is a bit of valve clatter and there always was so I wasn't sure if it was worse - I had double checked the clearance at 0.05mm as per my manual . A 10 minute very gentle ride and exhaust is clear but the valve clatter is still there and I think definitely worse than it used to be. So I came back and redid the cam chain tension routine to no avail.

I let her cool then removed the plug, cam cover and the valve covers and turned it over using a socket on the flywheel bolt. There is a clear valve tick on the exhaust valve 45 degrees after TDC - everything else is smooth and silent ( I turned it over many times. So I started reducing the clearance until the click disappeared problem is that took it down to 0.03mm. What if anything is this telling me? And should I go back to 0.05 and put up with the clatter or run it at say 0.04 - I have read that running it tighter is better than running loose.



FM350
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby FM350 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:54 pm

If you have noticeable noise from the valves on a TLR, and the rocker arms or cam itself arent worn, then its very likely you have a small amount of play in the cam to head bearing journal behind the cam sprocket. If this is the cause of the noise, then in most cases it will get louder as the bike warms up. Pretty easy to sort out, by metal spraying the cam journal, and grinding back to slightly larger diameter than original, and then boring worn cam journal in the head to suit.

Another problem that can result in noise is the head being wrongly assembled, with the valve spring seat shims omitted entirely and or the springs fitted upside down. Leaving out the cam oil feed blanking plug is also quite common, and will mean reduced oil pressure to cam sprocket side bearing journal, which will greatly increase the chances of wear here.



keychange
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby keychange » Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:36 pm

I ground the valves wouldn't that make the stem sit higher - and as a result require that I either reduce the clearance or grind down the stem to match.



keychange
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Re: TLR Engine Reassembly

Postby keychange » Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:02 pm

After removing and reinstalling the clutch cover countless times over the past 4 months I must have over-tightened the bolt forward bottom and has cracked right through and leaking nicely.

Given the other unknowns with the engine at the moment do I:
1. stick it together with JB weld and ride the bugger till it dies
2. try and get it welded
3. try and get replacement - will XR200 2 valve fit?
4. try and get replacement engine
5. scrap her for parts




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