I have been thinking about the crank problem.
I'm glad it's gone, binned in fact.
Why did the seal leek, why does the gasket look like it leaked and why was the piston failing?
I know one thing, it was a hard working motor.
I am surprised by how clean the crank area was. Leached clean. It must be so turbulent in there. I could see a path to say it's preasure range is much wider.
It started life as a KX125 bottom end. Now it has a 220cc piston on it and the bastards ported it to rev like a 125. My foolish response to that was to get a topend pipe and wrap it to retain heat which moves the peek rev even higher. I know another thing and that is it loves to rev.
I think the pressures were to high and the rod as flexing. That piston would be as heavy as a oem 250 piston on a 125 crank.
Think I'm getting to the last version so got the heavier weights. Saw a recommendation to go 3 red and 3 silver.
Would like it to open harder and have a few revs.
My long time friend the pransing horse
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Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
Why is this side so worn, the side is generally a low ware area.
But not this side.
You could say that area has the most metal so you take it as a metal expansion problem or poor machining. Then that could explain it.
Then why not this side
But not this side.
You could say that area has the most metal so you take it as a metal expansion problem or poor machining. Then that could explain it.
Then why not this side
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
That area has taken a pounding and I don't think I can lube it enough to resist ware.
The shamfer on the rear cutaway is nice.
Shame the ends have half as much
.
And the tip none.
The shamfer on the rear cutaway is nice.
Shame the ends have half as much
.
And the tip none.
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
Going the four hole lubrication system, don't think I have a choice.
Widening the bridge lubricating holes worked last time.
Similar to last time just a little more refined.
Nice shamfer
And I will smooth the ridge out.
Widening the bridge lubricating holes worked last time.
Similar to last time just a little more refined.
Nice shamfer
And I will smooth the ridge out.
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
its hard to get your head around that
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
First go at getting to Mount Faulkner this time with the bush tyers on and it's still hard.
I would walk up and possibly down that slope even if it wer dry. Coming up I use it as a powered walking stick. Two options, one is to use the throttle to drag you up and when the going gets real hard then there is the slow walk button.
Going up the wheel base is to short and the front bounces from one rock to the other and can't hold a line. The final point to get off is when your head is forward and on the handle bars. There is always grip so flipping it Isn't hard. Going down steep hills the feeling of going over the handle bars is always there.
I went around the front of the mountain range and couldent get through to Mt Faulkner. It rained lightly all day and on the way back I found a new type of ground, this is about 10m into it.
Tenn meters further down the road it proved to be a real challenge.
Second attempt I found a side door on the far back side of the range.
Still had about 75% in the tank so turned it up from peddle assist 5 to 7 to ease off on the economy. Assist 7 is a good compromise between power and economy. When ever it got below 10kph you over rife it with throttle to maintain balance and speed on hills and for fun bits. Over 30kph bumps and stuff starts to make it get a bit wobberly. Peddle with the assist when convinet to conserve power and override with throttle where required. Peddle assist 7 is roughly half available power and equal to about 3 peoples legs.
This is the first time I can say I rode it like a motorbike. You know how much power you have and want to conserve. Grip is excellent and the brakes are good
I would walk up and possibly down that slope even if it wer dry. Coming up I use it as a powered walking stick. Two options, one is to use the throttle to drag you up and when the going gets real hard then there is the slow walk button.
Going up the wheel base is to short and the front bounces from one rock to the other and can't hold a line. The final point to get off is when your head is forward and on the handle bars. There is always grip so flipping it Isn't hard. Going down steep hills the feeling of going over the handle bars is always there.
I went around the front of the mountain range and couldent get through to Mt Faulkner. It rained lightly all day and on the way back I found a new type of ground, this is about 10m into it.
Tenn meters further down the road it proved to be a real challenge.
Second attempt I found a side door on the far back side of the range.
Still had about 75% in the tank so turned it up from peddle assist 5 to 7 to ease off on the economy. Assist 7 is a good compromise between power and economy. When ever it got below 10kph you over rife it with throttle to maintain balance and speed on hills and for fun bits. Over 30kph bumps and stuff starts to make it get a bit wobberly. Peddle with the assist when convinet to conserve power and override with throttle where required. Peddle assist 7 is roughly half available power and equal to about 3 peoples legs.
This is the first time I can say I rode it like a motorbike. You know how much power you have and want to conserve. Grip is excellent and the brakes are good
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
good thing the objective was not the view.
Two days before this ride I discovered the rear wheel had little spin so checked out the bearings and they looked similar to this.
What can make dents like that I don't know. Greased it up and slapped it back together and hoped for the best.
On the way back I I'm thinking of how much force I'm putting through the rims. Over a 100kg (bike and rider) that could be put through either wheel.
A question was asked of which spoke material was best. These are stainless steel and there work harden carastistic was not appresiated. After I washed the bike I found a broken spoke and several bent like this.
Two days before this ride I discovered the rear wheel had little spin so checked out the bearings and they looked similar to this.
What can make dents like that I don't know. Greased it up and slapped it back together and hoped for the best.
On the way back I I'm thinking of how much force I'm putting through the rims. Over a 100kg (bike and rider) that could be put through either wheel.
A question was asked of which spoke material was best. These are stainless steel and there work harden carastistic was not appresiated. After I washed the bike I found a broken spoke and several bent like this.
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
The new hub arrived. Seems a little narrower between the spokes. Other that that it's suposed to be much stronger with 4 sealed bearings. Two on either side of the cassette dram and two either side of the hub.
The axel is now 15mm instead of the previous 10mm threaded hollow thing.
It's now healed on by 10mm bolts instead of a 5mm quick release skewer.
This setup is way stronger.
I'm ok with lacing it up but will take it in for truing. The thin rim is probably the next week point so proper truing with a spoke tensions is probably best. This time round I'm using spokes with a higher steel content so they don't work harden and snap like full stainless steel likes to.
The axel is now 15mm instead of the previous 10mm threaded hollow thing.
It's now healed on by 10mm bolts instead of a 5mm quick release skewer.
This setup is way stronger.
I'm ok with lacing it up but will take it in for truing. The thin rim is probably the next week point so proper truing with a spoke tensions is probably best. This time round I'm using spokes with a higher steel content so they don't work harden and snap like full stainless steel likes to.
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
Well I now know which side of a pipe is the fastest The hottest side.
I have taken the sound wrap of most of it. Theory is it will give me bottom end back.
I had to dent that. Moving the pipe forward to use the exhaust spacer made the powervalve drive cover touch.
The expected increase in noise could be mitigated if i repacked the silencer.
Now taking the silencer apart manifests a expectation of oil.
It's dry
Oily like handling sheep.
No oil it's dry and somewhat burnt.
The perforated tube has carboned up nicely. If I could 3D print one that's what it would look like.
Nothing
I have taken the sound wrap of most of it. Theory is it will give me bottom end back.
I had to dent that. Moving the pipe forward to use the exhaust spacer made the powervalve drive cover touch.
The expected increase in noise could be mitigated if i repacked the silencer.
Now taking the silencer apart manifests a expectation of oil.
It's dry
Oily like handling sheep.
No oil it's dry and somewhat burnt.
The perforated tube has carboned up nicely. If I could 3D print one that's what it would look like.
Nothing
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
Re: My long time friend the pransing horse
I pushed the previous motors and it heald up now this one feels smoother and I won't thrash it.
The lighter clutch wedges feel more natural with out the slip.
Moved the Handel bar extenders forward and out of aligned and it opend up the position.
For the first time I now think the suspension is to soft at lighter oil and softest setting on rebound and compression. My speed increased to where I kept up the the fastest and bottomed the front end out 3 times in the bush.
The lighter clutch wedges feel more natural with out the slip.
Moved the Handel bar extenders forward and out of aligned and it opend up the position.
For the first time I now think the suspension is to soft at lighter oil and softest setting on rebound and compression. My speed increased to where I kept up the the fastest and bottomed the front end out 3 times in the bush.
hindsight is a terable way to learn I'd rather be gifted
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