New Guy!

[Craigus77]

Hello trials people..

Thought I better register and say hello after a few months of visiting as a guest, great site with a tonne of useful info :)

Today I finally dove in and bought my first trials bike I've been riding bikes both dirt and road for the best part of my life and have always wanted to own a trials bike. Ended up with a 2004 BETA REV3 200

I have a few questions for the techo's on here:

1. How can I confirm the bike is a 200cc? I looked everywhere and for the life of me cannot see a stamp on the engine anywhere.
2. The bike has been in storage for a long time (bought from a mate) apart from the usual bearings, oils and filters is there anything else I should be changing/inspecting before riding?
3. The carb is a little leaky when leaning the bike gently to one side, I'm guessing float level? Should be simple enough to resolve (I hope)
4. Anything else?

I got the bike very cheap, needs some TLC but looking forward to getting amongst it :)

Cheers
Craig.

[David Lahey]

Coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid
The carby on them requires close attention to float level because it is tilted forwards a fair way - good for going up steep things though. There is an extensive thread on Trials Central forums about setting up the carby. It is pinned to the top of the Beta forum
Sorry I don't know how to tell if it is 200 or 250 by the engine number. I had a 2003 Rev3 200 Beta I bought second hand and wondered if it really was a 200 for a while because it went so well. You will soon tell if you have a ride on someone else's 200 or 250
The factory didn't grease the chassis bearings so unless someone has done it, they might be rusty - steering head especially
The original ignition stators had a high failure rate. If yours still works well you are either lucky or the stator has been rewound.
The water pump housing on some of them corrodes and leaks coolant into into the clutch casing. Not all do it. I think it depended on how well the pump housing internals were coated in the factory. The part is quite economical to replace.
Sometimes a rear brake slave cylinder piston will stop retracting. You can reduce the chance of this happening by artificially exercising the pistons and seals
Apart from those little foibles, which are all surmountable, they are great to ride and are relatively robust

[Craigus77]

Thanks for the info David, I plan on removing/repacking/replacing all bearings and fluids. I'll suss the thread out on Trials Central and see if I can get the carb right.

Also, what fuel/oil ratio is everyone using? All my old 2T dirtbikes I ran Motorex oil @ 40:1.

Oh, and is there an Aus parts distributor or shop that anyone can recommend for new bits/spares?

Cheers
C.