I have a basket case TY250B that I'm building, and I will have plenty of silly questions about it (so I apologise in advance).
Because it's not a 'together' bike It can be tricky working out what's what.
First question (now you'll see why I call it 'silly'):
My rear right hand upper engine mount 'tab' is missing from the frame- I'm making another - that's easy, BUT the crankcase casting for that mount is slightly on an angle, -instead of being parallel with the engine centreline, the casting - face for the bolt/nut is angled slightly in, pointing towards the spark plug. It looks wrong, and I can't see why Yamaha would have done this, but you never know. (There's no damage to the casting to account for this, but I guess it's possible that some other component is bolted in there?)
Balls! (And I'm not talking the bollocks here...)
Steering head standard ball bearings, 19 balls per race, but what diameter balls are they?
-Jools
TY250 silly questions...
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
Silly answer... I found tytrials.co.uk offering a set of balls:
x19 1/4" balls for the bottom race, and x22 3/16" balls for the top race.
(If that's correct it's good 'cos I have those in stock).
Imperial though obviously...
x19 1/4" balls for the bottom race, and x22 3/16" balls for the top race.
(If that's correct it's good 'cos I have those in stock).
Imperial though obviously...
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
You're right, they are silly questions. Why are you even bothered about "ball bearings" when you can go tapered bearings?
https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/ ... -bearings/
https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/ ... -bearings/
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
There's no other component fitted to the RH upper rear engine mount.
I've seen a few broken-off engine mounts on TY250 twinshocks.
Having no frame tubes under the engine, the engine mounts on the TY250 twinshock do get a lot of load as you ride so they need to be kept tensioned.
One basket case TY250B I bought had been ridden with loose mounting bolts and the holes in the casings were slots about 2 bolt diameters long.
I've seen a few broken-off engine mounts on TY250 twinshocks.
Having no frame tubes under the engine, the engine mounts on the TY250 twinshock do get a lot of load as you ride so they need to be kept tensioned.
One basket case TY250B I bought had been ridden with loose mounting bolts and the holes in the casings were slots about 2 bolt diameters long.
relax, nothing is under control
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
Thx David. Yes it's not hard to imagine things going awry with the engine mount setup.
Rod,
(I knew I'd get a silly reply! - as well as my own).
My ball races are in excellent condition and will outlive me by many, many years just with the addition of new balls. If I'd have wanted to go for taper rollers I would have just done it wouldn't I?
I enquired about the ball sizes for the standard races because I want to use the standard bearings. Simple. (Thanks for the advice anyway).
Rod,
(I knew I'd get a silly reply! - as well as my own).
My ball races are in excellent condition and will outlive me by many, many years just with the addition of new balls. If I'd have wanted to go for taper rollers I would have just done it wouldn't I?
I enquired about the ball sizes for the standard races because I want to use the standard bearings. Simple. (Thanks for the advice anyway).
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
So here:
As shovelled out of Dean's ute, the rear sprocket on the rear wheel of the TY250B was a 51T DISHED sprocket (new).
It doesn't line up with the engine GB sprocket. So then I 'trial-fitted' my old worn 51T TY175 FLAT sprocket and that lines up fine.
So I assume either: I have a non-standard rear wheel, OR the dished sprocket is wrong. ??
Second point: Are DT250 Ignition Points the same as TY250?
Third: I have had no response on my wanted ad for TY250B rear suspension units, so it looks like I'll need to buy new aftermarket ones. Opinions on what to get? Obviously I want decent shocks, but I do need to keep the dollars modest.
Ideas?
My fork springs/assembly look nothing like the TY250A parts list illustrations I have. My forks have a simple one-piece spring with a approx 3" tubular spacer. Am I looking at the wrong parts list -did they change the forks from the A to the B model? or are my forks wrong? (mine is a B model remember).
Be good to lose a few kilos off the TY so I've been looking at that as I build it... not many viable options, but one glaring item is the Fibreglass seat unit! -Bluddy'ell talk about overweight that! I'll be making a lighter seat pad for sure. The frame is really light, the engine is heavy, but not a lot could be pared off there even if you start drilling fins, -not much to be gained there, wheels and suspension? Not much there either.
Anyone have alloy handlebars surplus to requirements?
As shovelled out of Dean's ute, the rear sprocket on the rear wheel of the TY250B was a 51T DISHED sprocket (new).
It doesn't line up with the engine GB sprocket. So then I 'trial-fitted' my old worn 51T TY175 FLAT sprocket and that lines up fine.
So I assume either: I have a non-standard rear wheel, OR the dished sprocket is wrong. ??
Second point: Are DT250 Ignition Points the same as TY250?
Third: I have had no response on my wanted ad for TY250B rear suspension units, so it looks like I'll need to buy new aftermarket ones. Opinions on what to get? Obviously I want decent shocks, but I do need to keep the dollars modest.
Ideas?
My fork springs/assembly look nothing like the TY250A parts list illustrations I have. My forks have a simple one-piece spring with a approx 3" tubular spacer. Am I looking at the wrong parts list -did they change the forks from the A to the B model? or are my forks wrong? (mine is a B model remember).
Be good to lose a few kilos off the TY so I've been looking at that as I build it... not many viable options, but one glaring item is the Fibreglass seat unit! -Bluddy'ell talk about overweight that! I'll be making a lighter seat pad for sure. The frame is really light, the engine is heavy, but not a lot could be pared off there even if you start drilling fins, -not much to be gained there, wheels and suspension? Not much there either.
Anyone have alloy handlebars surplus to requirements?
Re: TY250 silly questions...
Jools.
53 tooth dished sprocket is standard.
A model forks have the bleed screw on the outside. B model to the rear.
Alastair
53 tooth dished sprocket is standard.
A model forks have the bleed screw on the outside. B model to the rear.
Alastair
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
Jools wrote:So here:
As shovelled out of Dean's ute, the rear sprocket on the rear wheel of the TY250B was a 51T DISHED sprocket (new).
It doesn't line up with the engine GB sprocket. So then I 'trial-fitted' my old worn 51T TY175 FLAT sprocket and that lines up fine.
So I assume either: I have a non-standard rear wheel, OR the dished sprocket is wrong. ??
or the swingarm is bent or the rim is not central on the hub or the wrong axle spacers have been used
relax, nothing is under control
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
Jools wrote:My fork springs/assembly look nothing like the TY250A parts list illustrations I have. My forks have a simple one-piece spring with a approx 3" tubular spacer. Am I looking at the wrong parts list -did they change the forks from the A to the B model? or are my forks wrong? (mine is a B model remember).
B model forks are slightly different to A model forks, but both have a single suspension spring and a single spring spacer. You didn't actually say what looks wrong on yours
relax, nothing is under control
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Re: TY250 silly questions...
David, it was that my forks didn't look quite like the schematic Illustration I have, (Not that there's anything actually wrong with my forks), see CMS schematic below. I haven't completely disassembled mine, just removed the spring and spacer so I don't know what the damper/piston arrangement looks like 'down below', but I'm sure it's ok, I think I was just 'reading' it wrongly initially.
Alignment: I did have to repair one engine mount, but everything seemed to line up very well, nothing apparently bent. Nothing looks suss about the rear hub. -I'll do a more careful 'jig-up' to check.
Alignment: I did have to repair one engine mount, but everything seemed to line up very well, nothing apparently bent. Nothing looks suss about the rear hub. -I'll do a more careful 'jig-up' to check.
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