TY mono fork seals.
Moderator: Moderators
TY mono fork seals.
I am thinking of doing my own fork seals,but I'm not real confident.I have been watching a couple of You Tube clips but mine seem somewhat different,I also have the service manual which I sort of understand.A couple of questions for those that have done this if I could ask are,What sort of head/drive is on the 'Damper Rod holder' and how long is it (or is there something else I can use)?.Also,the manual states to always use a new copper washer and metal slide when changing seals.....Is this absolute?If I decide to just pull the legs off and take them to my local bike mechanic what sort of time frame (thinking dollars) should it take him providing everything is straight forward?Any help appreciated.
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: TY mono fork seals.
You probably don't need a tool to hold the damper rods stationary if you loosen the screws in the bottom before you take the fork springs out. The spring force usually holds the damper rods from turning. If the screws just spin and not unscrew from the damper rods, a rattle gun will usually get them out.
Replacing the seals (with the sliders already off the tubes) should take a motorcycle mechanic about 5 minutes per seal
If you take the complete legs in to the mechanic it may take 15 -20 minutes per leg to change the seals.
Its usually easier to change the seals if the fork tubes are left in place on the bike. I can change a pair of twinshock-era fork seals in 20 minutes from start to finish if I leave the tubes attached to the bike so a motorcycle mechanic will be quicker than that.
The videos on Youtube may be of upside-down forks which are different because the damper rod is attached to the cap.
Replacing the seals (with the sliders already off the tubes) should take a motorcycle mechanic about 5 minutes per seal
If you take the complete legs in to the mechanic it may take 15 -20 minutes per leg to change the seals.
Its usually easier to change the seals if the fork tubes are left in place on the bike. I can change a pair of twinshock-era fork seals in 20 minutes from start to finish if I leave the tubes attached to the bike so a motorcycle mechanic will be quicker than that.
The videos on Youtube may be of upside-down forks which are different because the damper rod is attached to the cap.
relax, nothing is under control
Re: TY mono fork seals.
Thanks for that David,I can remember (sort of) doing a set in my GS 750 about thirty five years ago but there were no bottom screws etc.I might have a yarn to the local dirt bike bloke as a lack of tools could stump me on this one.Thanks again much appreciated.
Re: TY mono fork seals.
David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out.
-
- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: TY mono fork seals.
pop wrote:David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out.
The "just pop out" part can be pretty exciting
relax, nothing is under control
- Don Duck
- C grade participant
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 6:19 pm
- Bike: Fantic 240
- Club: MTCQ
- Location: Jimboomba QLD
Re: TY mono fork seals.
Hi Banshee,
I you do have a crack at it yourself, I recommend you use original Yamaha fork seals for the mono, I find that they are more reliable and last much longer than aftermarket seals that I've been sold in the past. And they wont break the bank. They are one of the few things from Yamaha that are actually priced competitively, no doubt due to the over abundance of aftermarket seals!
The spring wire clips that retain the seals can get quite rusty, if they are, it doesn’t hurt to replace them now so you don’t have to dig them out in bits at the next seal change, there fairly inexpensive.
You only need to replace the copper washer if it leaks after assembly, haven’t had it happen yet! And the metal slides seem quite long wearing.
An 8mm hex drive in a impact driver is the easiest way to dismantle them. (If you have one) Guaranteed one rod will always want to spin when either undoing or assembling them.
I find the hardest part is remembering were I put the tube I used last time to knock the new seals into their seats!!
I havent tried the "POP" method, I fitted air caps a while back, I'll try it next time I have to do my seals!!
Cheers Don
I you do have a crack at it yourself, I recommend you use original Yamaha fork seals for the mono, I find that they are more reliable and last much longer than aftermarket seals that I've been sold in the past. And they wont break the bank. They are one of the few things from Yamaha that are actually priced competitively, no doubt due to the over abundance of aftermarket seals!
The spring wire clips that retain the seals can get quite rusty, if they are, it doesn’t hurt to replace them now so you don’t have to dig them out in bits at the next seal change, there fairly inexpensive.
You only need to replace the copper washer if it leaks after assembly, haven’t had it happen yet! And the metal slides seem quite long wearing.
An 8mm hex drive in a impact driver is the easiest way to dismantle them. (If you have one) Guaranteed one rod will always want to spin when either undoing or assembling them.
I find the hardest part is remembering were I put the tube I used last time to knock the new seals into their seats!!
pop wrote:David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out.
I havent tried the "POP" method, I fitted air caps a while back, I'll try it next time I have to do my seals!!
Cheers Don
Ground Clearence......The Twinshock Riders Best Friend
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests