TY mono fork seals.

Got a technical question? Ask it in here.

Moderator: Moderators

Banshee
Junior participant
Junior participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:47 am

TY mono fork seals.

Postby Banshee » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:43 pm

I am thinking of doing my own fork seals,but I'm not real confident.I have been watching a couple of You Tube clips but mine seem somewhat different,I also have the service manual which I sort of understand.A couple of questions for those that have done this if I could ask are,What sort of head/drive is on the 'Damper Rod holder' and how long is it (or is there something else I can use)?.Also,the manual states to always use a new copper washer and metal slide when changing seals.....Is this absolute?If I decide to just pull the legs off and take them to my local bike mechanic what sort of time frame (thinking dollars) should it take him providing everything is straight forward?Any help appreciated.



David Lahey
Champion
Champion
Posts: 4062
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
Bike: Many Twinshocks
Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
Location: Gladstone, Queensland

Re: TY mono fork seals.

Postby David Lahey » Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:42 pm

You probably don't need a tool to hold the damper rods stationary if you loosen the screws in the bottom before you take the fork springs out. The spring force usually holds the damper rods from turning. If the screws just spin and not unscrew from the damper rods, a rattle gun will usually get them out.
Replacing the seals (with the sliders already off the tubes) should take a motorcycle mechanic about 5 minutes per seal
If you take the complete legs in to the mechanic it may take 15 -20 minutes per leg to change the seals.
Its usually easier to change the seals if the fork tubes are left in place on the bike. I can change a pair of twinshock-era fork seals in 20 minutes from start to finish if I leave the tubes attached to the bike so a motorcycle mechanic will be quicker than that.
The videos on Youtube may be of upside-down forks which are different because the damper rod is attached to the cap.


relax, nothing is under control

Banshee
Junior participant
Junior participant
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:47 am

Re: TY mono fork seals.

Postby Banshee » Tue Oct 23, 2012 11:55 am

Thanks for that David,I can remember (sort of) doing a set in my GS 750 about thirty five years ago but there were no bottom screws etc.I might have a yarn to the local dirt bike bloke as a lack of tools could stump me on this one.Thanks again much appreciated.



pop
Expert participant
Expert participant
Posts: 223
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:40 am
Bike: klx

Re: TY mono fork seals.

Postby pop » Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:19 pm

David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out. :-" :idea:



David Lahey
Champion
Champion
Posts: 4062
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
Bike: Many Twinshocks
Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
Location: Gladstone, Queensland

Re: TY mono fork seals.

Postby David Lahey » Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:17 pm

pop wrote:David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out. :-" :idea:

The "just pop out" part can be pretty exciting


relax, nothing is under control

User avatar
Don Duck
C grade participant
C grade participant
Posts: 42
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 6:19 pm
Bike: Fantic 240
Club: MTCQ
Location: Jimboomba QLD

Re: TY mono fork seals.

Postby Don Duck » Tue Oct 23, 2012 9:27 pm

Hi Banshee,
I you do have a crack at it yourself, I recommend you use original Yamaha fork seals for the mono, I find that they are more reliable and last much longer than aftermarket seals that I've been sold in the past. And they wont break the bank. They are one of the few things from Yamaha that are actually priced competitively, no doubt due to the over abundance of aftermarket seals!

The spring wire clips that retain the seals can get quite rusty, if they are, it doesn’t hurt to replace them now so you don’t have to dig them out in bits at the next seal change, there fairly inexpensive.
You only need to replace the copper washer if it leaks after assembly, haven’t had it happen yet! And the metal slides seem quite long wearing.
An 8mm hex drive in a impact driver is the easiest way to dismantle them. (If you have one) Guaranteed one rod will always want to spin when either undoing or assembling them.
I find the hardest part is remembering were I put the tube I used last time to knock the new seals into their seats!!

pop wrote:David, there again air fork caps would come in handy, take the clips off and empty the oil out and pump some air in and the seals just pop out.


I havent tried the "POP" method, I fitted air caps a while back, I'll try it next time I have to do my seals!! :lol:

Cheers Don


Ground Clearence......The Twinshock Riders Best Friend


Return to “Technical help”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 12 guests