Hi all,
Thought I would post some photos of my ty250 project. Have currently dismantled everything and stripped the frame. The frame is now finished with primer colour and clear coat. Im looking forward to painting the tank and cleaning the rest of the bike up.
Need help with a few items though...
1. What is the best way to strip/polish the motor to remove all of the old corrosion build up?
2. Can anyone recommend some decent rear springs? I am about 75-80kg
3. My forks are pitted and a little corroded, what is the best way to clean these up, or will re chroming hide this?
Ty250 project
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Ty250 project
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- Champion
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Re: Ty250 project
Re-chroming the fork tubes involves grinding off the old chrome and the steel underneath is ground back enough to take out the rust pits. If the pits are too deep they wont accept them for rechroming.
Springs are usually different dimensions on different shockies, so you may have trouble sourcing different springs for those shocks. If you measure the springs up it will help people help you find some springs. Diameter of wire, ID of coils, free length of spring. New modern trials shocks come with springs and the modern damping in them make the bike much nicer to ride than the shocks that are on it.
Wet abrasive blasting the inner casings and cylinder fins is probably the best to give a durable finish that looks most like the original. Blasting of any sort requires the motor to be completely pulled apart. You can clean up the inner casings with the motor assembled using brushes and solvent.
The outer casings on that motor are magnesium and rare so should be painted with suitable (epoxy) paint inside and outside to avoid corrosion. They can be polished, and look amazing when polished, but require very frequent repolishing to remove the oxide
Springs are usually different dimensions on different shockies, so you may have trouble sourcing different springs for those shocks. If you measure the springs up it will help people help you find some springs. Diameter of wire, ID of coils, free length of spring. New modern trials shocks come with springs and the modern damping in them make the bike much nicer to ride than the shocks that are on it.
Wet abrasive blasting the inner casings and cylinder fins is probably the best to give a durable finish that looks most like the original. Blasting of any sort requires the motor to be completely pulled apart. You can clean up the inner casings with the motor assembled using brushes and solvent.
The outer casings on that motor are magnesium and rare so should be painted with suitable (epoxy) paint inside and outside to avoid corrosion. They can be polished, and look amazing when polished, but require very frequent repolishing to remove the oxide
relax, nothing is under control
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- Champion
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Ty250 project
Depending on how bad the pitting is on the forks, and if you are making a ride bike or a fancy looking bike, the rust pits may not cause a problem.
If you don't particularly care about cosmetics, sometimes you can just remove any rust that protrudes above the surface of the chrome and live with slightly reduced fork seal life. A decent close-up showing the pitting would help people give advice. I've seen plenty of bikes successfully ridden with pitted fork tubes, and to make the upper ends of the tubes look nice, you can fit thin-walled stainless steel tubing over the fork tubes (between the triple clamps), or paint the tubes in that section
If you don't particularly care about cosmetics, sometimes you can just remove any rust that protrudes above the surface of the chrome and live with slightly reduced fork seal life. A decent close-up showing the pitting would help people give advice. I've seen plenty of bikes successfully ridden with pitted fork tubes, and to make the upper ends of the tubes look nice, you can fit thin-walled stainless steel tubing over the fork tubes (between the triple clamps), or paint the tubes in that section
relax, nothing is under control
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Re: Ty250 project
Blasting the motor is the easy but pricey solution for cleaning it up. You can get a really good (and authentic) finish by using plenty of elbow grease, cleaning solvents, brillo pads, Blitz Aluminium cleaner, that sort of thing. When you've lost a day or two doing that, every time you glance at the bike you'll be able to say..."cor, I did that, no wallets were hurt in the production of". Seriously it can be very satisfying doing work like that rather than just 'paying the man' to do it. (Obviously you need the time, lucky for me I have it, but many people don't).
And as David says, if the outer casings are magnesium they must be painted because the air corrodes magnesium quickly. Satin silver paint, 2k single stage auto paint sprayed straight on (unprimed) super-cleaned 600 grit rubbed or brillo prepped magnesium casings is my tip. Or rattle-can 'wheel silver' looks good but isn't as durable.
And as David says, if the outer casings are magnesium they must be painted because the air corrodes magnesium quickly. Satin silver paint, 2k single stage auto paint sprayed straight on (unprimed) super-cleaned 600 grit rubbed or brillo prepped magnesium casings is my tip. Or rattle-can 'wheel silver' looks good but isn't as durable.
Re: Ty250 project
Hi Tjay7
A few question come to mind when I look at the picture of your frame:
The " bridge " that start at the back of the tool box as been cut, do you know if it's been done lately or it's been like that for a while ? Is the frame still strait ?
There is no gousset between the spot where the top of shock bolt to the frame and the top of the frame ( under the seat ) is the down tube still strait ? Maybe it is because of the way the bracket is welded to the tube.
And I would like to know the length of your shock.
Thank you for the info and maybe some comments from other that have TY with the sane mod.
Guy
A few question come to mind when I look at the picture of your frame:
The " bridge " that start at the back of the tool box as been cut, do you know if it's been done lately or it's been like that for a while ? Is the frame still strait ?
There is no gousset between the spot where the top of shock bolt to the frame and the top of the frame ( under the seat ) is the down tube still strait ? Maybe it is because of the way the bracket is welded to the tube.
And I would like to know the length of your shock.
Thank you for the info and maybe some comments from other that have TY with the sane mod.
Guy
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- Champion
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- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:01 pm
- Bike: Many Twinshocks
- Club: CQTC Inc, RTC Inc
- Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Re: Ty250 project
Thanks Guy I didn't notice the missing frame element in that frame until you posted that.
It looks a lot like the Peter Paice Replica TY250 frame I did a few years ago, except the rear uprights have been shortened at their top ends instead of their bottom ends. Cant tell in those photos if the motor has been raised, but it is likely because why else would anyone remove the "toolbox" frame element?
tjay7 do you have any "before" photos of the assembled bike, showing the RH side of the bike?
It looks a lot like the Peter Paice Replica TY250 frame I did a few years ago, except the rear uprights have been shortened at their top ends instead of their bottom ends. Cant tell in those photos if the motor has been raised, but it is likely because why else would anyone remove the "toolbox" frame element?
tjay7 do you have any "before" photos of the assembled bike, showing the RH side of the bike?
relax, nothing is under control
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- Expert participant
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- Location: Near Bath,SW UK.
Re: Ty250 project
David, I would say that the motor hasn't been raised,it looks standard height to me. The upper rear shock mounts have been moved down a long way,further than a Majesty by the look of it and there is no stiffening triangle as per the Majesty. I can't see much point in cutting out the toolbox section like that,wonder what the reason was ?
I have yet another 250 frame in to do most of the Majesty mods on, must find some time to get on with it...
I have yet another 250 frame in to do most of the Majesty mods on, must find some time to get on with it...
Re: Ty250 project
Another one John?
How many have you done?
I did 2, one to test if I had it wright and another one that I use that have matching frame and motor number. I don't care what people say, I find them nicer to ride than the original.
One last thing. Maybe it is the angle that the complete bike picture was taken but the steering angle look steeper than stock to me.
Guy
How many have you done?
I did 2, one to test if I had it wright and another one that I use that have matching frame and motor number. I don't care what people say, I find them nicer to ride than the original.
One last thing. Maybe it is the angle that the complete bike picture was taken but the steering angle look steeper than stock to me.
Guy
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- Expert participant
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:44 pm
- Bike: Ty250,Ht5.
- Club: Bath Classic
- Location: Near Bath,SW UK.
Re: Ty250 project
I can't remember ! Think its 4 now,I have one spare frame left which I might use to convert my ratty 250 with. Trouble is it will cost me £350 for a nice new petrol tank.Here is a link to the photo's I took when I was first playing around with them,hope it might help;
https://picasaweb.google.com/1091714388 ... 2895411650
https://picasaweb.google.com/1091714388 ... 2895411650
Re: Ty250 project
I remember looking at them, your jig is built so the frame is upside down mine is the other way around, and you rest the frame on an angle piece so you know immediately if that part of the frame is straight. I have checked the price of those tank Heuuu... a little expensive for me as I am incline to drop the bike where ever there is a rock. As you and David follow this post, and I think you both have been on a " real " Majesty " , is there a lot off difference between the one that you built and the original ?
Guy
Guy
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